Recommended
Hikes
A
hiker's
guide
to
bagging
Southern
California's
best
peaks
"Why climb mountains?" is a question all climbers are asked time and again. Few have described the lure better than Charles Houston: "The answer cannot be simple; it is compounded of such elements as the great beauty of clear cold air, of colors beyond the ordinary, of the lure of unknown regions beyond the rim of experience...[it is] the pleasure of physical fitness, the pride of conquering... the chance to be briefly free of the small concerns of our common lives..." Houston was talking about the most fearsome of all mountains in his epic book, "K2, The Savage Mountain." But his words are also applicable to a 3,000' walk-up "bump" in a San Diego coastal range or even a little ramble on a rock pile. We go "up there" to be free. Free to feel our heart pound for a good reason. No stress, baby. Just exercise. Free to breathe better air, take in long, satisfying views, and look down on flying birds stitching the ridgelines that march away from our feet. Free to see how precious our mini-mounts like Iron, Calabasas, and Sandstone really are, and how magnificent it is to have 11,502' San Gorgonio in our back yard. Here's how to top out on a few of the best, as recommended by some of our favorite outdoor writers.
In each case, we recommend that you visit an Adventure 16 store near you and supply yourself with a good map of the region and essential equipment (at a bare minimum be sure to carry the Ten Essentials of survival; details available in all stores). You can and should obtain more information about these hikes from the authors' guidebooks, as well as by calling local and state parks and Forest Service rangers that patrol your destination. Always check local conditions before hiking, let someone know when and where you're going and when you're due back, and stick to your plan. See you at the top!
Calabasas Peak from Stunt Road
By Milt McAuley
Near Stunt Road where Cold Creek comes down from the south, massive sandstone mountains rise steeply from the floor of the valley. This hike to Calabasas Peak will take you through these rocky outcrops. Cross Stunt Road from the parking area and walk uphill on a dirt road. You are in for a 950' gain in elevation during the 2-mile hike to the top. An occasional rest stop gives hikers a chance to see the Cold Creek watershed to the west and later, when you reach the saddle, Old Topanga Canyon Creek comes into view to the east. Huge slabs of sandstone tilted on edge when the Santa Monica Mountains formed, eventually weathering into unusual shapes. Notice "Marmot Rock" on the left—nearby you may find dozens of Santa Susana Tarweed. The plant is on the endangered species list, and although it grows in other parts of the Santa Monica Mountains, it has found a home here in sandstone cracks. The seldom-seen Silver Lotus grows along the road but we must be alert to spot the few plants here.
Calabasas Motorway steepens some as it makes a switchback to the right. A sweeping left turn follows the south facing slope of the mountain. Then head north. Upon reaching a temporary high point the road takes a slight dip as it heads for a saddle. Here you can leave the road by getting onto a trail set back from the road cut. Climb up a bulldozer-eroded rocky slope to turn left and follow the ridge to the top. Look around for the register and let others know your feelings about the climb. Return by the same route. Total distance about four miles.
TO THE TRAILHEAD:
From Woodland Hills in the San Fernando Valley drive west on Mulholland Highway to Stunt Road. Turn left, drive one mile and park to the right.
Santiago Peak
By Jerry Schad
Standing atop 5687-foot Santiago Peak one clear late-fall morning, I surveyed more Southern California real estate than I'd ever seen before from any other peak. From this unassuming bump along the crest of the Santa Ana Mountains, I could trace the coastline from Point Loma to Point Dume, and spot both Santa Catalina Island and San Clemente Island. Closer at hand, there was no end to the flat urban tapestry spreading across the L.A. basin, spiked at intervals by clusters of high-rise buildings.
Bagging Santiago Peak by the most scenic hiker's approach, Holy Jim Trail, is a tough haul—15 miles round trip and nearly 4000 feet of elevation gain. During the short days of late fall and early winter, you must get an early start to ensure a daylight return. Take all the water you'll need, plus extra clothing—summit temperatures may be 20 degrees cooler than below.
The route is relatively simple. Just head up Holy Jim Canyon toward Holy Jim Falls. Veer left on the ascending Holy Jim Trail before reaching the falls. At 4.5 miles into the hike, you reach the unpaved Main Divide Road. Follow it for another 3 miles to Santiago's summit.
TO THE TRAILHEAD:
The drive to the trailhead along unpaved Trabuco Canyon road is a bit of an adventure: loose rocks and potholes are the norm. The road intersects Live Oak Canyon Road just east of O'Neill Regional Park in southeastern Orange County. Proceed 4.7 miles east, taking care not to blunder up someone's dirt driveway, and look for the Holy Jim parking area on the left. You'll need a National Forest Adventure Pass to park here. Call the Trabuco Ranger District, Cleveland National Forest, for more information: (909) 736-1811.
Villager Peak
By Jerry Schad
As desert peaks go, 5756' Villager Peak holds a special fascination for me. The cactus-and agave-spiked, waterless, ridge-running route to the top offers non-stop panoramic views—first of a few hundred square miles of desolate Anza-Borrego landscape, then of a much broader region encompassing the entire Coachella and Imperial valleys. If you want to follow in my footsteps and those of perhaps two hundred other hikers yearly, I'd suggest choosing an auspicious time between November and March. That's when northeast Santa Ana winds or cold north winds may sweep away nearly all traces of atmospheric moisture and pollution.
The approach to Villager Peak is straightforwardly up, using the main north-trending ridge at the south end of the Santa Rosa Mountains. You'll gain 5000 feet of elevation in 6.5 miles, and return on the same route. One or more faint paralleling trails follow parts of the ridge—the result of recent use by hikers, prehistoric use by desert-dwelling Native Americans, and more or less continual use by bighorn sheep. Sturdy footwear is recommended to protect against ankle-bruising stones and thorny vegetation. You'll need to carry plenty of water. One long day suffices for some, but others prefer an overnight backpack. The backpacking option is best accomplished by bedding down somewhere short of the peak and dayhiking the peak early on the second day.
TO THE TRAILHEAD:
Drive to a northside turnout at mile 31.8 on Borrego-Salton Seaway (County Highway S-22), 13 miles northeast of Borrego Springs. On foot, proceed north toward the east end of a long, sandy ridge .5 mile away. From there you'll clearly see ahead of you, due north, the long ramp-like ridge leading to Villager Peak. You'll need an Anza-Borrego Desert State Park parking pass. Call (760) 767-4205 or (760) 767-5311 for information.
Iron Mountain
By Jerry Schad
Iron Mountain thrusts its conical summit 2696 feet above sea level, frequently well above the low-lying coastal haze that may shroud the San Diego region. On crystalline days, I've enjoyed a summit panorama sweeping 360 from glistening ocean to blue mountains and back to the ocean again.
The shortest way up the mountain (just over 3 miles one-way) takes you along signed pathways from the intersection of Poway Road and State Highway 67 to the summit. Thick stands of chaparral stood along these trails until 1995, when a wildfire swept over Iron Mountain's summit, burning to a crisp everything in its path. The trails remain in good shape, however, and last season's El Ni-o rains promoted a vigorous growth of fresh vegetation. On the summit you'll find a massive, pier-mounted telescope (no coins required) thoughtfully provided for your pleasure in scanning the near and far horizons.
TO THE TRAILHEAD:
From Interstate 15, exit Mercy Road and drive east 9 miles on the new Scripps Poway Parkway to Highway 67. Turn north. Park on the shoulder just south of Poway Road (S4).
Two Peaks
By Christopher Nyerges
Mount Disappointment and San Gabriel Peak in the Angeles National Forest can be reached in one hike. From Eaton Saddle, walk down the dirt road. You'll walk through Mueller Tunnel, and then Markham Saddle. There is no sign, but you'll see a huge cement water tank. From Markham Saddle, don't continue on the main road. Look west (to your right)—just south of the water tank—for the dirt path that disappears into the bush. In less than two miles on this path, you'll arrive at a small saddle with a trail going both east and west. Follow the right fork, and about .75 of a mile of a steeper trail to a good view at San Gabriel Peak.
Hike back the same way until you reach that last fork. Then, take the other fork—the one leading you to the west—and you'll soon come to an asphalt road. Hike upward on this road—about an eighth of a mile—to the top of Mount Disappointment. The summit bristles with electronic towers; a "mini-Mount Wilson."
Go back down to the saddle. You now have two choices.: Return the way you came to your car, or, you can follow the paved asphalt road that leads down from the saddle. This takes you back down to the Mt. Wilson road where you parked, but nearly two miles north on that road. Since this route is very appealing, you might want to travel here with two cars, and leave a car at each location. Total distance about seven miles.
TO THE TRAILHEAD:
In La Ca-ada, exit the 210 freeway at Angeles Crest Highway. Drive up to Red Box Station, about 15 miles from La Ca-ada. At Red Box, make a right turn (going toward Mount Wilson) and travel 2.5 miles to Eaton Saddle. Eaton Saddle has a dirt turnout parking area on both sides of the road. You'll also see a Forest Service dirt road with a large metal bar across it.
Sandstone Peak via The Mishe Mokowa Trail
By Milt McAuley
Sandstone Peak is on a massive volcanic rock formation called Boney Mountain. From the top we have a spectacular view from this highest point in the Santa Monica Mountains. At 3111' Sandstone Peak commands a 360Á panorama of the western end of the mountains. The Pacific Ocean dominates the view southeast and west, where we see eight offshore islands. Northwest of our position a flat plain comes into view. Oxnard Plain is a giant syncline, or downfold in the earth's surface, that over time has filled with materials washed down from surrounding mountains. Now it produces some of the best strawberries found anywhere. The mountain range on the northern horizon is part of Los Padres National Forest. There the Sespe Condor Sanctuary is home for a small but recovering population of California condors. Northeast, inland valleys stretch to the San Fernando Valley. Los Angeles sprawls out east and southeast almost as far as we can see.
Begin your hike at the parking lot (directions below) and climb north on a dirt road. Keep a sharp lookout on your right for a sign "Mishe Mokwa Trail" directing you along the east facing slope of the mountain. Deep down on your right, Carlise Creek tumbles its way to Lake Sherwood. Note Balanced Rock across the canyon—a source of wonder over how it has managed to resist earthquakes and other forces of nature.
Cross the stream and continue toward a massive split rock. Tradition suggests that all hikers walk through the split: some believe that evil spirits following a hiker will not accompany you through the slot! Continue along the trail for a half hour and upon reaching a ridge, look for two large water tanks across a semilevel area. Here the trail turns east. At the second switchback a steep trail on the right leads to the top of Sandstone Peak. You'll now notice that Sandstone Peak is volcanic. Savor the view for you are on top of the world!
Retrace your steps to the main trail and tighten the laces on your boots for a 2-mile downhill plunge to the parking lot. Total distance 7 miles with a gain and loss of 1500 feet.
TO THE TRAILHEAD:
From Malibu, drive west on the Pacific Coast Highway 1 mile beyond the Ventura County line to Yerba Buena Road. Go north 6.5 miles to a parking lot on the left. The trail goes uphill from the lot.
Echo Mountain and Mount Lowe
by Christopher Nyerges
At one time, one could ride an electric car from downtown Los Angeles to Altadena, and then to Rubio Canyon in the Altadena area. From Rubio Canyon, passengers rode a specially constructed car up the steep incline to the top of Echo Mountain. At Echo Mountain, and further up the mountain at Mount Lowe camp, there was a popular resort and hotel from the late 1800s through the 1930s. Today, only ruins remain. To get to Echo Mountain and Mount Lowe, hike upward on Chaney Trail from the parking area. After 1.5 miles on the paved road, you'll see the small footpath that leads east to Echo Mountain. You'll know it's the right trail because you can actually look across the canyon to the east and see Echo Mountain and the somewhat flattened top. You'll actually be walking on the old path of the electric cars that once traveled between Echo Mountain and the Alpine Tavern at Mount Lowe Camp.
Along this trail, there are currently color signs which show how this trail looked 100 years ago when the electric cars operated. Getting up to Mount Lowe camp is easy, and there are two simple ways to do it. You can go back down the trail to the road you started on. That's a backtrack of about .5 mile. Then go uphill for another five miles until you come to Mount Lowe camp. But let's go to the top of the actual mountain, to Mount Lowe. Continue up the road about .5 mile until you come to "five points"—a curve in the dirt road where it meets three trails. Stay on the main road, and after perhaps the distance of a city block, you'll see a dirt trail on your right (it may or may not be marked). This trail winds east and then around to the back side of the mountain where you watch for an even smaller trail off to your left which takes you to the very top of Mount Lowe.
TO THE TRAILHEAD:
From the 210 freeway, exit on Lake Avenue in Pasadena and travel to the extreme north end of Lake Avenue, where you park. Then follow the dirt road (just south of the paved road with the massive iron gates) directly east, then down into and across Las Flores Canyon. Continue on the trail for nearly 3 miles to Echo Mountain. An alternate route is from the west. From the west 210 freeway in Pasadena, exit on Lincoln Avenue, and turn right (north). Travel north on Lincoln to Loma Alta, and then turn right (east). Travel about .5 mile east on Loma Alta until you come to Chaney Trail (look for the yellow light hanging above the road). Travel up steep and winding Chaney Trail 1 mile to where the road forks, and park at the fork. Walk up the road for about three miles to Echo Mountain, or continue directly to Mt. Lowe Camp and Mt. Lowe.
San Gorgonio: Rooftop of Southern California
By John Robinson
San Gorgonio Mountain crowns all of Southern California. No other peak south of the Sierra Nevada rises high enough to challenge its 11,502-foot elevation. The great hogback mountain is the culminating hump of the 10,000'-plus, 7-mile long, sky-piercing ridge that dominates the San Gorgonio Wilderness. Although a familiar sight to millions living below, only the hiker can really know the charm of this alpine island in the sky. Wind-buffeted dwarf lodgepoles and limber pines hug the ground between boulders. Small clumps of high altitude chinquapin sprout in protected hollows. Diminutive alpine wildflowers bloom colorfully in early summer—most common are pink-flowered locoweed, alpine buttercup, and silver mat. Golden-mantle ground squirrels and grayish lodgepole chipmunks dart among the elfin trees. Just east of the summit, on desert-facing slopes, dwell a handful of Nelson bighorn sheep. Red-tailed hawks and Clark's nutcrackers are often seen flying above. What's more, the air is crisp with the chill of elevation, and the sky is deep blue.
This is a trip every Southern California hiker should make at least once. A view from the top, on cloudless days, encompasses a 360-degree panorama from the Coachella Valley to the Tehachapis, from Pacific to the farthest reaches of the Mojave Desert.
There are trails to San Gorgonio's gravely summit from all directions. The one I like the best enters via the "back door" of the San Gorgonio Wilderness, climbing up Fish Creek and over Fish Creek Divide to Mineshaft Saddle, then up the Sky High Trail, circling the eastern slopes of the mountain, to the top. It is far less crowded than the better-known routes via the South Fork Meadow or Vivian Creek.
From the Fish Creek parking area, walk westward on a well-defined trail (avoiding several other less defined paths), gradually descending to a junction with the Lower Fish Creek Trail coming in from your right. Continue straight ahead as your trail curves southwest into Upper Fish Creek. You climb along the left (southeast) slope above the creek, through a rich forest of Jeffrey pine and white fir. After several switchbacks to gain elevation, the pathway contours over into the main draw and reaches Fish Creek Trail Camp, 1.75 miles from the start. Water flows year around in the stream just west of camp.
Beyond the trail camp, the trail starts climbing the broad slopes of Grinnell Mountain. As you rise above 9,000 feet, views open to the north and to the east. Lodgepole pines begin to predominate. After four long switchbacks, you cross Fish Creek Saddle, the contour down to Dry Lake, five miles from the start. Continue straight ahead, passing another trail down the North Fork of Whitewater River, .25 mile to Nine Shaft Saddle.
A sign indicates San Gorgonio, 3.5 miles. Follow the trail as it climbs eastward through an open lodgepole forest, then makes eight switchbacks up the northeast slope of the mountain. After gaining a thousand feet, your trail rounds the eastern ridge of San Gorgonio and climbs westward up the south slope. Below to your left is "The Tarn," 10,560-feet, which becomes the highest lake in Southern California when snow melt fills it for a few weeks each late spring. At .7 miles from Mine Shaft Saddle, the trail intersects the main footpath coming up from the west. Turn right (east) and follow the path .25 mile to the summit.
Descend the way you came. With a car shuttle, you can return via Vivian or Falls Creek Trails to Mill Creek Road, or via Dollar Saddle and South Fork Meadows to Jenks Lake Road.
TO THE TRAILHEAD:
From Redlands, drive east to State Highway 38 to the entrance road to Heart Bar Campground, 5 miles past Barton Flats, 32 miles in all. Turn right on Forest Road 1NO2, passing the campground entrance, to a junction in 1.2 miles. Go right, up 1NO5, bearing right at all road forks, to the signed Fish Creek parking area, 7.4 miles from the highway.
Our Peak-Loving Contributors
Milt McCauley, avid hiker, naturalist and Santa Monica Mountains activist, has spent half of each week for the last 19 years hiking, leading hikes and exploring the Santa Monicas. The rest of his time is spent writing books (seven to date) and running Canyon Publishing Company. Before becoming an author, Milt was a pilot in the U.S. Air Force and worked in aerospace. His popular guidebooks include "Guide to the Backbone Trail," "Hiking Trails of the Santa Monica Mountains," and five other titles.
Christopher Nyerges is the author of "Enter The Forest" (featuring the Angeles National Forest) and "Guide to Wild Foods." He has been leading wilderness outings since 1974. For a schedule or more information, contact his School of Self-Reliance, Box 41834, Eagle Rock, CA 90041; (213) 255-9502 or http://home.earthlink.net/~nyerges/
John Robinson began hiking as a boy with the Long Beach YMCA and fell in love with the mountains of Southern California. An avid hiker, he is the author of numerous guidebooks, most notably "Trails of the Angeles," and "San Bernardino Mountain Trails" (Wilderness Press), and several histories of mountain ranges, including the San Gabriels and San Bernardinos. He is presently at work on a book of Southern California mountain passes called "Gateways of Southern California."
Jerry Schad's "Afoot and Afield" guidebooks, published by Wilderness Press, have become the standard references for Southern California hikers of all abilities. Jerry also serves as host for the television series "Afoot and Afield in San Diego," which airs on KPBS-TV in San Diego.
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